Igor Stipanović
When first arrived in Japan in the 1960s, in 1965 to be precise, the country was still ‘authentic’, like in the Middle Ages. Electricity had only recently been introduced and installations and wires were everywhere. Even the sewers were open. I saw this in Hiroshima. Japanese men and women walked around in wooden footwear and white socks. But I returned in 1971, 1974, and 1976, and each time I could see the progress. At the time I had young children, and their products for children were far more advanced. The traditional aspect of Japan still existed, with geishas, Japanese-only clubs, and traditional restaurants. Once, I had a situation in which I was invited to dinner by the Japanese. I was given saké and only drank half the glass. I didn't know that was considered quite offensive until they pointed it out and discretely asked me to “drink whole sake.” So I did.
I have been to around twenty different harbours in Japan and I must say that I have never had an unpleasant experience. On one occasion, we spent an entire month in Yokohama, where a ship conversion was taking place and they worked on it tirelessly every day. I recall a particular incident where a Japanese man accidentally dropped a gas burner used to cut metal hull plates. He was very upset and climbed down to retrieve the burner, but his boss slapped him across the face. That was their form of discipline. Every morning, the workers arrived for work thirty minutes earlier and exercised. If you asked a Japanese person about their top priority in life they would say that their loyalty to their employer until the end of their working life comes first and their family only comes second. They often work well into their senior years and I have seen pilots as old as 70. And they were very well paid. Japan’s internal waters are among the busiest in the world. Several passages are quite complex and it is crucial to consider the weather, currents, tides, and the activities of fishers. I once commanded a ship that was borderline in terms of tonnage that didn't require an extra pilot for such areas. As a result, I had to navigate the ship myself and it was no easy task. However, my efforts were appreciated and I received a bonus over my regular salary. Over time, many changes have occurred in Japan. The Ginza in Tokyo was once a remarkable sight but today it is totally obscured by tall buildings. The airport in Osaka used to be on the sea, but no longer is thanks to land reclamation. It is unbelievable how much land they reclaimed to get additional space because the neighbourhoods on the seashore were overcrowded, and they even created new port facilities. Their architecture is fascinating. I was in Kobe in 1987 or 1988 during an earthquake. At the time a suspension bridge was being built and they were almost ready to connect it before the big earthquake. There was no damage afterward, and they were able to complete the bridge.